As a dermatologist, I see the impact of being a “pink person” every single day in my clinic. Most commonly, this redness is diagnosed as rosacea. Rosacea is a condition characterised by the capacity to go “red in the face” easily. Those with rosacea tend to flush and blush easily and are often complimented on having a “healthy, rosie glow.”
Rosacea is what us derms like to call a vasoactive disorder, the fancy term for people who are more likely to go red from simple triggers like heat, exercise, hot showers and baths, red wine and other alcohol, more easily than the average person.
Over time, the intermittent flush and blush episodes start developing into fixed, more permanent redness. Then you may start to see little capillaries develop in the skin. After more and more episodes of going red in the face, inflammatory lumps and bumps can appear. While this might look like acne, it’s actually inflammatory rosacea.
HOW TO GET ROSACEA AND REDNESS UNDER CONTROL
THE SKINCARE RULES
STEP 1: CLEANSE
Choosing the right cleanser is the most important step in reducing redness. I’m talking about no soap, no scrubs and no foaming cleansers. You need a cleanser that cleanses without stripping and without causing barrier damage. Look for soothing anti-inflammatory ingredients like niacinamide/vitamin B3, allantoin (comfrey root) and bisabolol (chamomile), which are all contained in my DrNC Concentrated Cleanser. Yes I really do think about what we are doing when I make this stuff! It is good for you :)
STEP 2: MOISTURISE
The right moisturiser seals in moisture while supporting the skin barrier - aka your skin’s brick wall of life. Dry, dehydrated skin will only flare up redness and sensitivity.
Choose a moisturiser with niacinamide/B3, an active proven to reduce inflammation, strengthen and support the skin’s barrier function, increase ceramides in the skin (your natural moisturising factors) that strengthen, hydrate and fortifies your skin barrier. Vitamin B5, ie panthenol, is also great as a humectant and stabiliser. Anti inflammatories like allantoin (comfrey root extract) and bisabolol (chamomile extract) can help too, along with sophisticated dimethicone and good old glycerin and cocoglycerides (derived from coconut oil).
SHOP CONCENTRATED MOISTURISER+ AND CONCENTRATED HYDRATION+
STEP 3: SPF
Applying sunscreen daily is essential for pink peeps. The types of SPF best suitable for rosacea sufferers are physical, chemical-free blockers only, i.e. zinc + titanium dioxide. These are non-irritating SPF ingredients, unlike some of the chemical blockers you’ll find in traditional sunscreens. Ideally, you want protection SPF30 and above. And if you can find a product containing anti-inflammatory ingredients like niacinamide/vitamin B3, then that is even better!
My Concentrated CC+ is a colour corrector, with SPF30 physical blockers to protect, prevent and perfect, all in the one product!
STEP 4: TREATMENTS
The main aim of treatments is to eradicate any capillaries, as capillaries feed the flushing episodes and increase the chances of getting the lumpy bumpy rosacea outbreaks.
My two go-to laser treatments are the Cutera Excel V 532nm laser and the V Beam. If you want a more gentle approach with less downtime (but less results), you can look at the Spectra 595nm Gold Toning. This requires no downtime but you do need more treatments, and might not achieve as impressive results compared to the Cutera and V beam.
BBL and IPL are helpful, BUT the vascular lasers above are better.
LED treatments are great to get rid of the inflammatory rosacea flare ups. Usually a couple of treatments a week is needed. My favorite is the Healite 830nm by Lutronics.
We offer all of these treatments in my clinic and the face bar by DrNC and are accepting post-lockdown bookings now.
STEP 5: THINGS TO AVOID
Staying out of hot and humid environments is key to keeping redness and rosacea at bay, as these will only cause a flare-up.
- Saunas
- Steam rooms
- Steam based facials
- Scrubs
- Sitting next to fires / heaters
Try to keep cool at all times and when exercising, choose your activity wisely. That means it’s a no to hot yoga or bikram yoga. Instead, choose pilates, strength/weights training or swimming.
Remember to always take a cold towel or washer to your exercise class or the gym and keep around your neck while working out, in order to keep your face cool and prevent it from flushing red.